Hermès menswear designer Nichanian takes final bow after 37 years
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5:39 PM on Saturday, January 24
By THOMAS ADAMSON
PARIS (AP) — With Paris Fashion Week menswear heading into its final weekend, Hermès marked a transition Saturday as Véronique Nichanian presented her final men’s collection after 37 years leading the house’s menswear and then stepped out to acknowledge a standing ovation.
The Fall-Winter 2026 show was staged at the Palais Brongniart, the former Paris stock exchange.
The front row blended Hermès executives with a broader-than-usual mix of musicians, actors and designers.
Singer Usher was seen ahead of the show with Hermès executive chairman Axel Dumas. Rapper Travis Scott, actors James McAvoy and Chace Crawford, and designer Paul Smith were among those attending.
On the runway, Nichanian delivered the kind of material-driven, understated wardrobe that has long defined Hermès men’s clothing.
Models wore silk turtlenecks paired with leather trousers in a restrained palette of navy, black and taupe.
Overcoats were built with leather patchwork elements and shearling linings, leaning into warmth and texture without showy excess.
Several looks drew directly from earlier seasons, with archival pieces incorporated into the lineup.
Among them were a navy leather suit with topstitched pinstripes first shown in 2003 and a mocha calfskin jumpsuit from 1991.
Color arrived in controlled flashes, with orange and yellow jackets interrupting the darker tones.
One of the most striking pieces was a glossy khaki crocodile-skin suit, a statement look that stood apart from the quieter mix of leather, silk and tailored outerwear.
Hermès announced in October that London-based designer Grace Wales Bonner will succeed Nichanian.
Wales Bonner, founder of her eponymous label, is scheduled to present her first Hermès menswear collection next January.
Hermès has said she will become the first Black woman to lead a major fashion house.
Nichanian will remain with Hermès overseeing men’s accessories and silk, the company has said, as the brand’s menswear enters a new chapter.
